Natural cosmetics are becoming increasingly popular – their market share has grown significantly in recent years. Algae extracts are particularly interesting due to their valuable ingredients such as minerals, polyphenols and fatty acids. They can moisturise the skin, have an antioxidant effect and even prevent premature skin ageing. Some extracts may even have a skin-lightening effect, which makes them particularly attractive for the Asian market.
The challenge: there are hardly any studies on humans that prove the actual effect of algae extracts. In most cases, the positive effects are based only on laboratory tests, which cannot be applied to human skin across the board.
Envivomar is developing a testing platform to examine cosmetic raw materials from algae and other marine sources under real conditions. The aim is to scientifically prove the effects of the extracts on the skin – making them more attractive to the cosmetics industry.
Various skin parameters are tested, e.g.:
✅ Skin moisture & elasticity
✅ Skin oil content (sebum)
✅ Pigmentation & skin lightening
✅ Wrinkles, pores and skin structure
✅ Signs of acne (made visible by UV-A camera)
How do different extraction methods influence the effect of algae? Different methods extract different ingredients from algae – and this could have a direct impact on their skin care properties.
Methods are compared directly with one another. This would allow extracts with specific effects to be developed in a particularly targeted manner, e.g. stronger skin lightening or better moisturising.
The test platform developed in the project will subsequently be offered as a service for research and industry. This will enable other companies to have their new algae extracts tested quickly and reliably. At the same time, the scientific findings will be published – as far as possible – in order to establish new cosmetic claims in the industry.
The goal: more scientifically proven natural cosmetics with algae – for sustainable and effective skin care!
Timo Jensen, oceanBASIS
Algae are considered a source of hope for natural cosmetics: Their ingredients promise moisture, antioxidant protection and even skin-lightening effects. But many of these promises have so far been based on laboratory tests, reliable studies on humans are mostly lacking. This is exactly where the Envivomar project comes in.
Envivomar is developing a standardized test platform to investigate cosmetic active ingredients from algae and other marine sources in user studies on humans. The aim is to scientifically record their actual effect on skin parameters such as moisture, elasticity, wrinkles or pigmentation, under real conditions and with well-founded data.
In a first study, the project team tested established cosmetic raw materials such as glycerin, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid on the arms and faces of 18 participants. Specially developed gels were used as carrier material. Initial results show: Glycerin demonstrably improved the skin moisture of the participants. Hyaluronic acid also showed positive tendencies, but without statistical significance in this study. The study design was further developed on the basis of the results and will be tested in follow-up studies with algae extracts.
Envivomar wants to prove effects instead of merely claiming them, and relies on real measurement data instead of empty marketing promises. The modular structure of the test platform allows the comparison of different extraction methods and their influence on the skin care effect, a valuable basis for targeted product development.
In the long term, the platform is to be made available to other actors, for example as a service for companies, in research projects with academic partners or for the development of new, scientifically founded efficacy claims (“claims”) in the cosmetics industry.
